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Title: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming (1952)

Creator: United States. National Park Service

Release date: July 7, 2019 [eBook #59869]

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING (1952) ***

Grand Teton

National Park

WYOMING

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR

Oscar L. Chapman, Secretary

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

Conrad L. Wirth, Director

WARNING

This park, mostly wilderness, is the home of many wild animals, which roam it unmolested. Though they may seem tame, they are not! Some have been known to attack visitors without apparent provocation and have caused serious injury. Watch them at a safe distance; when driving, do not stop unless you can pull off the road; and stay in your car. For your safety, we must enforce the regulation which prohibits feeding or molesting these wild animals. Campers, and those who frequent roads and trails on foot, should exercise constant care to avoid attacks and injuries.

Historic Events

1807-8

Discovery of the Tetons by John Colter.

1811

The West-bound Astorians crossed Teton Pass.

1818

Canadian fur traders under Donald McKenzie ascended Snake River to its headwaters.

1824

American trappers under Jedediah Smith reached Jackson Hole.

1825-40

Zenith of the fur trade in Jackson Hole and the Rocky Mountain Region.

1829

William Sublette named “Jackson’s Hole” after his partner in the fur trade, David E. Jackson.

1832

Rendezvous of fur trappers in Pierre’s Hole. Battle of Pierre’s Hole.

1842

Alleged attempt to climb the Grand Teton by Michaud.

1860

Jim Bridger guided Capt. W. F. Raynolds’ expedition through Teton country.

1872

Disputed ascent of Grand Teton by Langford and Stevenson. William H. Jackson, with Hayden geological survey party, took first photographs of the Tetons.

1877

Hayden survey party of Orestes St. John made geological studies in the Tetons.

1879

Thomas Moran painted the Teton Range.

1884

The first settlers entered Jackson Hole.

1897

Teton Forest Reserve established.

1898

The Owen Spalding party made an ascent of the Grand Teton.

1929

Grand Teton National Park established and dedicated.

1943

Jackson Hole National Monument established.

1950

Grand Teton National Park enlarged by the addition of most of Jackson Hole National Monument.

Grand Teton

NATIONAL PARK

Grand Teton National Park includes the most scenic portion of the majestic Teton Mountain Range and the northern portion of Jackson Hole, a high mountain valley famous for its associations with early western history. Through congressional action in 1950 the greater portion of the former Jackson Hole National Monument was added to the park. The portions not so added were included in the National Elk Refuge and the Teton National Forest. The enlarged park contains approximately 300,000 acres of Federal lands.

The park is a part of the National Park System owned by the people of the United States and administered for them by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior.

The great array of peaks which constitute the scenic climax of Grand Teton National Park is one of the noblest in the world. Southwest of Jenny Lake, which is in the central portion of the park, is a culminating group of lofty peaks whose dominating feature is the Grand Teton. Much of the mountainous area of the park is above timber line; the Grand Teton rises to 13,766 feet and towers more than 7,000 feet above the floor of Jackson Hole.

The Snake River, flowing south from Yellowstone National Park, widens into Jackson Lake, 14 miles long. Below the lake, the swift river bisects and cuts ever deeper into the glacial outwash plain of the Ice Age. North of this upland valley lie the high plateaus of Yellowstone National Park; on the east and south are the Mount Leidy highlands and the Gros Ventre Mountains. Emma Matilda and Two Ocean, two lovely mountain lakes, lie north of the Snake and its tributary, Buffalo Fork.

Together the Teton Mountains and Jackson Hole form a landscape of matchless grandeur and majesty unlike any other in America.

History of the Region

The Tetons are remarkably rich in historic traditions. The Grand Teton itself has been referred to by an eminent historian as “the most noted historic summit of the West.”

Up to 1800, Indians held undisputed sway over the country dominated by the Three Tetons. Jackson Hole was literally a happy hunting ground, and, while the severe winters precluded permanent habitation, during the milder seasons, bands of Indians frequently came across the passes into the basins on warring or hunting expeditions.

The Tetons probably first became known to white men in 1807-8, when the intrepid John Colter, originally a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, explored the region for the fur trader, Manuel Lisa. On his return trip he became the discoverer of the geyser and hot-spring area of what is now Yellowstone National Park.

The Astorians, the first Americans to go overland after Lewis and Clark, passed through Jackson Hole in 1811 and crossed the Tetons on their way to the mouth of the Columbia.

The decades that followed are frequently referred to as the “Fur Trade Era,” for then Jackson Hole was a veritable crossroads of the Rocky Mountain fur trade and the scene of intensive exploration and trapping activities by both British and American fur interests. Explorations by such “mountain men” as Robert Stuart, Jedediah Smith, Jim Bridger, and Kit Carson helped to insure the acquisition of “Oregon Territory” for the United States.

The picturesque name of “Jackson Hole” for this high mountain valley dates back to 1829, when Capt. William Sublette named it for his fellow trapper and partner, David E. Jackson, when he found him in camp on the shore of “Jackson’s Lake” after the Wind River rendezvous of 1829.

The Rocky Mountain fur trade declined sharply after 1839, and during the period of the great migrations to Oregon, California, and Utah in the 1840’s and 1850’s via South Pass, the Jackson Hole country was largely deserted. There were brief flurries of interest in 1860, when Jim Bridger guided the Raynolds’ expedition through Jackson Hole, and in 1863, when Montana prospectors searched the gravel bars of Snake River for gold.

In the period from 1872 to 1880 several Government expeditions explored the valley and named most of the geological features of the surrounding country. Thomas Moran, the famous artist, and William H. Jackson, the “Pioneer Photographer,” painted and photographed the Tetons during some of these expeditions.

The first settlers came to Jackson Hole in 1884, and began building homes at what later became the villages of Jackson, Moran, and Wilson. During these days of early settlement Jackson Hole acquired a reputation as the hideout of many of the outlaws of the West. No doubt some did use this secluded valley as a hideaway, but undoubtedly these stories were exaggerated, as Jackson Hole sometimes is confused with the “Hole in the Wall” and other known sanctuaries of Wyoming “bad men.”

Sculpture of the Landscape

Geologists regard the Teton Range as one of the most impressive known ranges of the “fault block” type. Ages ago, along a great break in the earth’s crust (the “Teton Fault”) a gigantic block was uplifted and given a westward slant. Long-continued sculpturing of this tilted fault block by many natural agencies—frost, streams, avalanches of rock and snow, and glaciers—has produced the notable scenic features of the Teton Range as we now see it.

—UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD PHOTO Mount Teewinot as seen from the Jenny Lake Museum.

Streams on the east slope, having steeper gradients and therefore more rapid flow than the other streams, cut spectacular canyons on this side of the range. As these streams have worked back into the giant block, they have caused the divide to migrate westward, diverting more and more drainage to the east and leaving the great peaks standing like monuments on the ever-widening east slope.

East of the Teton Fault, in the Jackson Hole area, another great earth block lies deeply buried beneath debris brought down into the basin by mountain streams and glaciers. Changes wrought by the great glaciers of the Ice Age have given the region much of its distinctive character. Glacial erosion is strikingly evident in the sharply chiselled peaks, the U-shaped canyons and the profound basins (“cirques”) at their heads, and the numerous little alpine tarns (lakelets occupying ice-gouged basins). The irregular wooded ridges of Jackson Hole, on the other hand, are due to glacial deposition, being composed of bouldery debris heaped up by the ice. Some of these moraines form the dams which enclose the beautiful lakes at the foot of the Teton Range—Phelps, Taggart, Bradley, Jenny, Leigh, and Jackson Lakes. The broad terraced plains of Jackson Hole are for the most part great sheets of gravel spread out on the valley floor by the glacial streams of the Ice Age.

Small glaciers still found among the Teton Peaks are now believed to be youthful ice bodies only a few thousand years old, rather than the dwindling remnants of great glaciers of the Ice Age, as was formerly thought.

A fuller account of the geologic features is given on the reverse side of the topographic map of Grand Teton National Park, for sale at the museum.

Wildlife

The Jackson Hole country, long famous for its big game, is the home of one of the world’s largest elk herds. The elk, or wapiti, have been the most important big-game animals in Jackson Hole since the occupancy of white men. In the spring they leave the low country of the park and the National Elk Refuge, near the town of Jackson, and move toward the highlands surrounding the valley. When snowfall comes in the high country the elk return to the refuge, which is administered by the Fish and Wildlife Service of the Department of the Interior.

Shiras moose, the most commonly seen big game animal, is frequently observed in the smaller ponds and marshy meadows. The moose, largest member of the deer family, is not as wary as other deer. Mule deer are increasing in the park and environs, and, though quite shy, are often seen along the trails by hikers and horseback riders.

Small herds of bighorn, or Rocky Mountain sheep, range in isolated sections of the park, and bears may be found in the mountains and canyons.

Beavers, martens, minks, weasels, coyotes, marmots, conies, and rabbits inhabit the park, and ground squirrels and chipmunks are numerous. More than 100 species of birds may be identified by the careful observer.

Trees and Plants

In several respects the flora of the Tetons is unique. The high mountains have constituted a plant-migration barrier which many forms could not cross; hence the range limit of a number of species is found here. Representatives from north, south, east, and west are in the region, this being the limit, in many instances, of their distribution. There are a number of plants typical of the central Rockies and a few known only to this range. Four life zones are recognized within the park, all occurring within a distance of less than 15 miles.

A part of the Jackson Hole Elk herd.

The flowering period begins in the park as soon as the ridges and flats are free of snow in May, and it continues until about August 15 in the Arctic-Alpine Zone. Hence, plants of at least one zone and usually of several may be seen blooming at any time in the spring or summer.

The evergreen trees (of which the lodgepole pine, limber pine, whitebark pine, Engelmann spruce, and alpine fir are most common) form an appropriate frame for the majestic Teton peaks and are reflected in the lakes which they encircle.

The Interpretive Program

The park museum is located at Jenny Lake, the focal point for all naturalist activities. In it are housed exhibits pertaining to history, geology, fauna, and flora of the Teton-Jackson Hole country. The collection devoted to mountaineering is in many respects unique. Adjacent to the museum is an open-air amphitheater, where campfire talks on geology, wildlife, and other subjects relating to the park are given every evening during the summer season. Nature walks, auto caravans, and all-day hikes are conducted by members of the naturalist division.

An information desk is maintained at the museum, and rangers are there at all hours of the day to answer inquiries. These services are available during the summer season only, but information may be obtained at park headquarters throughout the year.

The naturalists and rangers are always glad to assist visitors in making the most of their visit to the park.

REVISED JANUARY 1951 N. P. G. T. 7021 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING

TRAIL DISTANCE

MILES

AROUND JENNY LAKE

7.2

AROUND STRING LAKE

4.0

AROUND LEIGH LAKE

7.5

FROM THE JENNY LAKE MUSEUM TO:

STRING LAKE

3.0

LEIGH LAKE

4.0

HIDDEN FALLS by trail;

2.7

by boat 1.2 and trail 0.5

FORKS OF CASCADE CANYON

6.5

LAKE SOLITUDE

9.4

TETON GLACIER

7.6

FROM PARK HEADQUARTERS TO:

TAGGART LAKE

2.0

BRADLEY LAKE

3.5

PHELPS LAKE AND DEATH CANYON

6.0

LAKES

MAX. DEPTH

AREA

JACKSON

400

Feet

25,540

Acres

LEIGH

250

1,229

JENNY

226

1,325

BRADLEY

93

72

TAGGART

31

163

PHELPS

158

525

—COPYRIGHT, CRANDALL Church of the Transfiguration at Moose.

What To Do While in the Park

There are numerous recreational activities in which the visitor may participate, and the park roads afford many vantage points from which to enjoy the magnificence of the Teton Range and the valley of Jackson Hole. Side roads lead to important points of interest, such as the Snake River, Two Ocean Lake, Signal Mountain, Hedrick’s Point, Saw Mill Ponds, Gros Ventre Slide, and many others.

Trails

Although the trail system of Grand Teton National Park is not completed, numerous trails and side roads are maintained for the visitor. Additional trails are planned, and existing secondary trails in the newly acquired portions of the park will be developed. The more than 130 miles of trails that now exist in the park are described below.

The Lakes Trail runs parallel to the mountains, following closely the base of the range and skirting the shore of each large body of water from Leigh Lake at the north to Phelps Lake at the south. Trails completely encircle Leigh, String, and Jenny Lakes.

The Teton Glacier Trail extends up the east slope of the Grand Teton to Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes, unfolding matchless panoramas of the surrounding country. Amphitheater Lake is the starting point for the climb to the Teton Glacier.

The Indian Paintbrush Canyon Trail starts near the outlet of Leigh Lake and follows up the bottom of the Indian Paintbrush Canyon to connect with the Cascade Canyon Trail by way of Lake Solitude, near the head of the north fork of Cascade Canyon.

The Cascade Canyon Trail passes through a chasm whose walls rise sheer on either side for thousands of feet. By this trail one penetrates into the deepest recesses of the Tetons, skirting the bases of several tall peaks. The north fork of Cascade Canyon Trail leads to Lake Solitude and the south fork leads to the Limestone Wall and Alaska Basin.

The Death Canyon Trail traverses the full length of a canyon which in its lower portion is of profound depth and grandeur, as awesome as its name. It emerges above into broad sunny meadows. The trail up the north fork of Death Canyon leads to Alaska Basin and a junction with the trail from the south fork of Cascade Canyon. The former trail along the east face of the wall has been destroyed by rock slides and IS NO LONGER SAFE FOR ANY TRAVEL.

While trails are traversable during the greater part of the summer, some of them may be blocked by snow at the beginning of the season. Those visitors expecting to use the trails early in the summer should inquire at park headquarters or at the Jenny Lake Museum for information regarding their condition.

The Jenny Lake Museum—Public Information Center.

Mountain Climbing

Persons inexperienced in mountain climbing are requested to obtain the services of a mountain-climbing guide, or attempt climbs only when accompanied by experienced climbers. Since 1931, authorized non-Government guide service has been available in the park. In view of the difficulties one encounters on the Teton peaks and the hazards they present, all prospective climbers are urged to make use of the guide service. If venturing out unguided, climbers should consult rangers or guides for full information relating to routes and equipment. Failure to heed this caution has led to accidents and even fatalities. Climbing parties are required, under all circumstances, to report at either park headquarters or Jenny Lake Museum before and after each expedition, whether guided or unguided. CLIMBING ALONE, WITHOUT A COMPANION, IS NOT PERMITTED.

The climbing season varies with the weather and the amount of snow in the range; it is at its best during July, August, and early September. In most cases it is advisable to allow 2 days for an ascent of Grand Teton, Mount Moran, or Mount Owen and 1 day for other major peaks. Jenny Lake Campground is the logical outfitting point for most expeditions. The majority of ascents require ice axes, rope, and hobbed boots or climbing shoes. Guided parties may arrange to rent equipment from the guide.

Fishing

Grand Teton National Park offers good opportunities for fishing. Fish may be taken with artificial lure during most of the summer and autumn. The lake or mackinaw trout in Jackson and Jenny Lakes can best be caught with heavy tackle by means of trolling.

The park waters are stocked through the cooperation of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service and the Game and Fish Department of Wyoming.

Boating

Boats are available on Jackson and Jenny Lakes. Speed launches are provided for scenic trips on these lakes. Rowboats, and boats with outboard motors, may be rented for fishing or for pleasure trips.

Persons bringing their own boats are required to register them with the National Park Service and to obtain a permit before placing them On the waters of the park.

How To Reach the Park

By Automobile—Grand Teton National Park may be reached from the east via United States Highway Nos. 287 and 26 by way of Togwotee Pass over the Wind River Range; from the south over United States Highways Nos. 187 and 189 using the Hoback Canyon route; from the southwest via the Grand Canyon of the Snake River or United States Highway No. 89 or from the west over Teton Pass using Wyoming Highway No. 22 and Idaho Highway No. 33 from the junction with United States Highway No. 191 near Sugar City, Idaho. All of the above-named highways are kept open throughout the year.

Entrance to the region from the north is through Yellowstone National Park, via its south entrance, using United States Highway No. 89 along the Snake River and Jackson Lake shore to its junction with United States Highways Nos. 187, 287, and 26 near Moran, Wyo., in Jackson Hole. This highway to Yellowstone National Park is not kept open during the winter months and generally is not opened in the spring until the last week in May.

By Railroad and Bus—The nearest rail terminal is at Victor, Idaho, on the Union Pacific Railroad. Regular bus service is maintained between Victor and the park by the Grand Teton Lodge & Transportation Co. during the summer months. The park may be reached from the south by buses of the Burlington Transportation Co. from Rock Springs, also on the Union Pacific, to Jackson, Wyo., thence by Grand Teton Lodge & Transportation Co. to Jenny Lake and Moran. Write to Grand Teton Lodge & Transportation Co., Moran, Wyo., for rates and schedules.

—COPYRIGHT, CRANDALL Grand Teton from a high mountain slope.

By Airplane—During the summer, Western Air Lines provides passenger, mail, and express service to Grand Teton National Park at an airport located about 9 miles north of Jackson, Wyo., and 8 miles south of park headquarters. Connections are made at Salt Lake City with United Air Lines main transcontinental line, and at Butte, Helena, and Great Falls, Mont., with Northwest Airlines.

View of Mount Moran from the east shore of Leigh Lake.

The Park Season

The season extends from June 15 to September 15. During that time a full schedule of activities is carried on by the naturalist staff of the park and food and lodging are available in or near the park. During the remainder of the year accommodations are limited chiefly to those provided in the town of Jackson, a few miles south of the park.

The four major highways leading to the park are kept open during the winter months and visitors can enjoy the scenic wonders of the Teton Range in its winter setting and participate in the winter sports for which Jackson Hole is famous.

What to Wear

Even during the summer months persons planning to camp in the park should provide themselves with camping equipment suitable for freezing temperatures. For trips into the mountains, visitors are advised to wear good hiking shoes and to take clothing suitable for extreme changes of temperature. Sudden showers or snowstorms often occur, especially during June and early July.

Accommodations and Miscellaneous Services

Overnight accommodations are supplied by the several ranches, dude ranches, and lodges in the park and at the town of Jackson. Meals are served at most of these establishments. A complete list of accommodations may be obtained by writing to the superintendent of the park.

Well-developed campgrounds are available at Jenny, String, and Jackson Lakes. These campgrounds are supplied with running water, sanitary facilities, cooking grates, and tables.

There are also camping sites away from the main campgrounds suitable for overnight stops for hikers or pack outfits. Large organized groups are advised to make advance arrangements for camp sites before coming to the park.

The supply of firewood for campfires is very limited and campers should bring kerosene or gasoline stoves for cooking in the campgrounds. Campfire permits are required for fires to be built in any place other than the regularly designated campgrounds.

Guide Service—At Jenny Lake there is an authorized official mountain-climbing guide who will guide climbing parties to the summits of the major peaks. He gives instructions in mountain climbing at frequent intervals during the climbing season.

Information concerning rates for all climbs may be obtained from the superintendent of the park or from the mountain-climbing guide.

Winter and early spring skiing is possible in the park, and skiing guides, ski equipment, and instructions in skiing are available at Jackson, Wyo.

Saddle Horses—The park saddle horse concessioner maintains an excellent string of saddle and pack horses, with good equipment for short or long trips. Saddle horses may be rented without guides, but only to ride over well-defined trails in designated areas.

Photographs—Up-to-date picture shops are maintained at Jenny Lake and Moran. Photographs of the surrounding country, enlargements, paintings, moving pictures, and souvenir post cards are sold. Laboratories are maintained for developing, printing, and enlarging.

The latest rates for these services, approved by the Director of the National Park Service, are on file with the superintendent and the park concessioners.

Administration

The superintendent is the representative of the National Park Service in immediate charge of the park, with offices at park headquarters. All communications regarding the park should be addressed to the Superintendent, Grand Teton National Park, Moose, Wyo.

Rangers and ranger naturalists are stationed at various locations in the park to assist in the protection of the area and to help visitors to enjoy the park and understand its natural phenomena.

Help Us Protect This Park

National parks are established “to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.”

Please cooperate with us in maintaining and protecting this park. The following observations are made for your guidance:

Preservation of Natural Features and Public Buildings—Trees, flowers, vegetation, rocks, minerals, animals, or birds may not be disturbed, injured, or destroyed, and buildings, signs, or equipment may not be defaced or destroyed. No material of any kind may be taken from the park without a written permit from the superintendent.

Bears and Deer—Feeding, touching, teasing, or molesting bears and deer is prohibited. Any close approach to them is dangerous.

Camping—Camps should be kept clean, rubbish and garbage burned, and refuse placed in cans provided for this purpose. CAMPFIRE PERMITS ARE REQUIRED for building campfires in areas outside designated campgrounds.

Fires—Be careful with fires at all times. Make sure your campfire is completely out before leaving it. Smoking and the building of fires may be prohibited when hazard makes such action necessary. ALL KINDS OF FIREWORKS ARE PROHIBITED.

Fishing—Fishing regulations are subject to change from year to year and the limit for a day’s catch may vary. Learn the limit and the regulations before starting to fish in any of the park waters. Fishing in any way other than with hook and line, and with the rod or line held in hand, is prohibited. A STATE FISHING LICENSE IS REQUIRED.

Hunting—Public hunting within the park boundaries is not permitted and the use of firearms while in the park is prohibited except upon written orders or permission from the superintendent.

Boating—Boating permits, which are required for boats placed on the waters of the park may be obtained at any ranger station.

Mountain Climbing—All mountain climbers must register at the ranger stations before starting to ascend any peak and must report their return from each climbing expedition. SOLO CLIMBS ARE NOT PERMITTED.

Automobiles—Drive carefully at all times. Speed limits are posted; these vary for different sections of the park. All accidents should be reported at the nearest ranger station. Fees for automobiles, trailers, and motorcycles are collected at the park entrances. All fees are deposited in the United States Treasury and are not available for expenditure in the park. Congressional appropriations are the only source of funds for administration and development.

Dogs and Cats—Dogs and cats may be taken into the park, but must be kept on leash, crated, or otherwise under physical restrictive control while within park boundaries.

Penalties—The penalty, upon conviction, for violations of the rules and regulations may be a fine not exceeding $500, or imprisonment not exceeding 6 months, or both, together with all costs of the proceedings.

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office, Washington 25, D. C.—Price $3.75 per 100 copies

Reprint 1952 U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1952 O—974703

Transcriber’s Notes

- Silently corrected a few typos.

- Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

- In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

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Table of Contents

Grand Teton National Park WYOMING

Historic Events

History of the Region

Sculpture of the Landscape

Wildlife

Trees and Plants

The Interpretive Program

What To Do While in the Park

Trails

Mountain Climbing

Fishing

Boating

How To Reach the Park

The Park Season

What to Wear

Accommodations and Miscellaneous Services

Administration

Help Us Protect This Park

Transcriber’s Notes

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